Today I decided to feature this Seiko Kinetic 5M62-0BL0. It is in need of a capacitor replacement. I will go through the various steps in a bit of detail, as some of my readers may be interested in attempting this themselves. Hopefully this narrative will be of help.
The procedure is achievable for a keen DIY-er. How far one takes it will depend on the level of skills and equipment. A simple capacitor replacement can be done with the movement in situ. However I personally choose to remove the movement to give the case a thorough clean without any risk to the movement. I also pressure test the watch after re-sealing it to ensure that the water resistance has not been compromised.
This is a summary of all the tools I am using during the process, minus the case opening tool and pressure tester.
Going anticlockwise starting from the watch:
- Pin tool
- A pointy steel tool (I use it to release the stem)
- A piece of pegwood
- Springbar tool
- 2 different size screwdrivers
- Plastic tweezers (to handle the capacitor)
- Conventional tweezers (for handling screws and everything else)
- Blower (to expel any dust from the case after cleaning)
- Case cushion
- Case vice
I start with the removal of the bracelet. The case has drilled lugs, so it is simply a matter of pressing on the spring bar with a pin. I would typically use the spring bar tool here but on this occasion the pin was too short, hence the use of the other little pin tool.
I now open the caseback. Make sure you clean around the caseback prior to opening, otherwise any dirt and residue could contaminate the movement.
My case opening tool is probably a luxury for the average DIY’er but you can use a “Jaxa” style opening tool, which is a lot cheaper. Other types of tools are also available. I would still recommend the use of a case vice. Ensure that the tool is held firmly and perfectly flat against the caseback. It is very easy to slip and scratch the back if this is not done correctly.
The open case now reveals the 5M62 movement.
I remove the oscillating weight which is held by a screw. To unscrew it, the oscillating weight needs to be held in place. I use a piece of pegwood held vertically, pressing against a plastic part (not against the weight or you will damage the bearing). As you unscrew, the edge of the oscillating weight will butt against the pegwood and block it, allowing you to unscrew fully.
I then remove the oscillating weight wheel. Note for re-assembly that the hole in the centre of the wheel is not square but rectangular.
I remove the two capacitor clamp screws. Be very careful not to slip with the screwdriver as a scratch on the coil will be fatal to the watch.
This allows me to remove the clamp, insulator and capacitor, ready for fitting the replacement capacitor. Be sure to make a mental note of the contact points as you remove the old capacitor.
The re-assembly is, basically, the same process in reverse.
With the movement now taken care of and ticking again, I remove it from the case. To release the stem I press on the release lever with a pointy tool. You can also use pointy tweezers or a piece of pegwood. The lever is accessible when the crown is in position 2, “date setting”. Note that the location of the stem release is identified on one of the photos above.
Movement is out.
I clean the case and caseback. The mating surface of the gasket must be absolutely spotless. I lubricate the new gasket with silicon grease.
The case is resealed, now looking very clean indeed.
I carry out a pressure test without the movement as a precaution.
As all is well, I now re-case the movement.
And conduct another pressure test (6Barg), which is also successful.
The job is done, I just need to fit the bracelet. The owner can feel safe in the knowledge that the watch has been re-sealed correctly.